The measurements (taken while wearing your best fitting bra) that give you
the most accurate way for ordering a pattern through the mail or in a store
are as follows:
under bust - taken with the arms down and breath exhaled,
just under the breasts, lift the breasts if necessary but be sure you have
your elbows at your sides when you actually record number in inches
high bust - taken from around your back, under the arms and around above the breast
(still with bra on, if there is a space between the chest and the straps of the bra,
pass the tape measure under the straps), record in inches
full bust – taken around back and over fullest part of the breasts,
do not put any tension on the tape measure, in fact it should be almost
loose enough to fall off, record in inches.
HOW BRA SIZES ARE DETERMINED
The under bust
size is rounded to the nearest inch and add 4 or 5 inches to get an even number.
e.g. if the under bust is 36.75 round up to 37 and add 5 to get 42. This is your
band size. Subtract the high bust measurement from the full bust measurement to
get a number. This relates to your cup size. 1/2" = AA, 1" = A cup, 2" = B cup
and so on.... Your wire is chosen by a chart that shows all the band and cup
sizes and the wire for each. If you are between sizes, go one cup size bigger as
it is easier to alter smaller that larger. This fitting is common in North
America but is also for this pattern. Most manufactures use only the under bust
and full bust measurements to determine the bra size. Using the high bust also
is more accurate. As with any pattern, the measurements for this most fitted of
garments you will ever wear, should be professionally fitted to get the best fit
due to the normal variation in different breast shapes.
The measurements above should be for most patterns in North America but
check each pattern company's size chart, especially if you are buying from
Europe where they often measure in centimeters and a direct conversion
doesn't seem to work well. However, the pattern I refer to is one I sell
that is really exceptional. I give great customer service to anyone who buys
my pattern, through e-mail help. Depending on the size, the bra has a full band
instead
of a partial band and the smaller sizes can be converted to full band if you
wish. A manual comes with the bra that further explains bra fitting and
embellishment techniques. You really must try it, everyone loves it.
When using a bra pattern for the first time (without a professional fitting) it can be hard to know how to choose the correct cup size as measurements often do not accurately reflect your size. So, I recommend you create a "tester" cup to assess the fit of the cup before you construct a whole bra. This saves you time sewing and money on fabric. Cut out only one of both cup pieces with the right side of the pattern up and the right side of the fabric up. Sew the cup together following the pattern directions. This will create a right cup. Next, baste channeling to the wire line with a straight stitch on the right side of the fabric. If your pattern is partial-banded, flip the channeling to the inside of the cup and baste again sewing on the opposite side of the channeling. Thread your wire inside the channel, making sure that the colored end of the wire is in the centre front of the cup. (If your wire doesn't have a colored end, look closely at your wire. It likely has one "arm" that is longer, this end goes opposite to the centre front.)
Lean into the cup and hold it close. Flip the cup inside out to check for fit of the other breast. A well fitting cup should fit snuggly to your chest all along the wire line and no excess tissue should bulge from around the cup edges. If it does, make a larger cup. Neither should the cup be loose or baggy. Make a smaller tester cup. You may not get a tester cup to fit perfectly, don't expect to. Use the closest fitting cup. If in doubt, use a larger cup, it can be darted out later. Once you have chosen your closest fitting cup, proceed to make your bra. You may choose to pick out the basting stitches and reuse your cup and channeling. Any other fitting issue for other parts of the bra can be resolved after the whole bra is finished. Don't forget to contact me if you need fitting help with my pattern.